Growing Guide
Growing In-Ground Means Working with Your Actual Soil
Sources: USDA SSURGO (Soil Survey Geographic Database), NRCS Soil Survey Handbook
Last updated:
Optimal pH Range
6.0 - 7.0
USDA SSURGO
Soil Map Units (US)
~380,000
NRCS Soil Survey
Drainage Classes
7 levels
USDA NRCS
What in-ground growing requires from your land
In-ground growing means your plants interact directly with native soil. Unlike raised beds or containers, there is no imported growing medium to buffer against local conditions. Every soil property — pH, drainage, texture, organic matter, depth to bedrock — directly shapes what will thrive.
This is not a limitation. It is a starting point. Many native soils across the United States are already well-suited for productive gardens. The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service has mapped and laboratory-tested soils nationwide through the SSURGO program, and a large share of mapped soil units fall within the optimal range for common vegetables and fruit trees.
The question is not whether your soil is "good enough." The question is: what does your specific soil support, and what would it take to expand that range?


See YOUR native soil data
See your SSURGO soil pH, drainage, and texture from the USDA — matched to 1,086 plants.
Three things about your exact spot that zone averages miss:
We read public map data for this spot — soil, climate, flood, and parcel records. How we handle your address.
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Understanding your native soil through SSURGO
SSURGO (Soil Survey Geographic Database) is the most detailed soil survey published by the USDA. It maps soil types at the field level, with each mapped area — called a "map unit" — carrying laboratory-tested properties collected by NRCS soil scientists who walked the ground and sampled the soil.
When Growable Ground analyzes your parcel, we query SSURGO for the specific map units that intersect your property boundary. This gives you three properties critical for in-ground growing:
Controls nutrient availability. Most vegetables thrive in pH 6.0-7.0. Outside this range, nutrients like iron and phosphorus become locked in the soil even when physically present.
Describes how fast water moves through soil. Well-drained soils suit most crops. Poorly drained soils stay waterlogged and cause root rot in most garden plants.
The ratio of sand, silt, and clay determines water retention and root penetration. Sandy loams drain quickly; clay soils hold moisture but can compact.

Two neighbors on the same street can have completely different soil map units — and completely different growing potential. That is why a parcel-level read matters more than ZIP-code generalizations.
Soil amendment strategies
When native soil properties fall outside the optimal range for your target crops, amendments can shift conditions over time. The right amendment depends on what your soil actually needs — which is why knowing your SSURGO properties first matters.
- Low pH (acidic soil): Agricultural lime (calcium carbonate) raises pH gradually over several months. The amount required depends on both current pH and soil texture — clay soils buffer more heavily than sandy soils, requiring larger applications per unit of pH change.
- High pH (alkaline soil): Elemental sulfur lowers pH as soil bacteria convert it to sulfuric acid. This is a slow process — plan for 6-12 months before significant change. Sulfur application rates also depend on soil texture.
Low organic matter: Compost is the one amendment nearly every soil benefits from — it adds organic matter, holds water in sandy soils, and opens up drainage in clay soils. The NRCS Soil Survey Handbook documents organic matter content per soil map unit — your report shows whether your soil is already adequate or would benefit from amendment.
Not every soil needs amending. The common misconception that "all soil needs to be replaced before planting" is exactly that — a misconception. Many native soils are already productive for a wide range of species. The point of data is to tell you which category your parcel falls into before you spend money on amendments you may not need.
In-ground, your soil carries full weight
This is the difference between in-ground and a raised bed: in the ground, the soil is not negotiable, so its properties count for everything. When Growable Ground scores 1,086 plants for an in-ground bed, a pH mismatch, poor drainage, or a contamination flag pulls a plant's suitability down in full — because those are the exact conditions the plant will live in. Raised-bed and container scoring relax the soil constraints; in-ground scoring holds them, alongside your PRISM climate normals, sun hours, and frost dates. It reflects reality: your plants grow in this soil, so this soil has to support them.
See YOUR native soil data
See your SSURGO soil pH, drainage, and texture from the USDA — matched to 1,086 plants.
Three things about your exact spot that zone averages miss:
We read public map data for this spot — soil, climate, flood, and parcel records. How we handle your address.
25+ data sources analyzed in seconds
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to replace my native soil before planting in-ground?
Almost never. Replacing soil is expensive, backbreaking, and usually unnecessary — most native soils grow a wide range of crops as they are. USDA SSURGO gives you your soil's pH, drainage class, and texture, and many map units already sit in the optimal range for vegetables and fruit trees. The productive move is to read what you have and amend the one or two properties that are actually off, not to truck in a new soil.
How do I amend clay soil?
Feed it organic matter, not sand — sand mixed into clay can set up like concrete. Work 2 to 4 inches of compost into the top 6 to 12 inches, and keep adding a layer each season; the organic matter opens up the tight clay structure, improves drainage, and feeds the soil life that keeps it loose. Never dig or till clay when it's wet, which smears and compacts it. Clay has one real upside: it holds nutrients and water well, so once it's opened up it's highly productive.
How do I find out my soil pH without a test kit?
USDA SSURGO maps laboratory-tested soil properties for every mapped area in the US. Growable Ground queries SSURGO for your exact parcel and returns a published pH from NRCS soil surveys — enough for a starting point. For crop-critical decisions, confirm with an inexpensive lab test through your local Cooperative Extension, since pH can vary within a single yard.
What soil amendments raise or lower pH?
To raise pH (make acidic soil less acidic), use agricultural lime (calcium carbonate) — it works over several months. To lower pH (make alkaline soil more acidic), use elemental sulfur, which soil bacteria slowly convert to acid over 6 to 12 months. Both rates depend on texture: clay buffers heavily and needs more material than sandy soil to shift the same amount. Change pH gradually and re-test rather than dumping a large single dose.
What is the best soil pH for tomatoes?
Tomatoes do best in slightly acidic soil, about pH 6.0 to 6.8 — squarely inside the pH 6.0 to 7.0 band that suits most vegetables. In that range the nutrients tomatoes need, calcium included, stay available; drift much above 7 and iron and phosphorus start to lock up even when they're physically present in the soil. If your SSURGO pH reads high, a modest sulfur amendment nudges it down over a season.
What does drainage class mean for in-ground gardening?
USDA drainage class describes how quickly water moves through soil. "Well drained" soils suit most vegetables. "Poorly drained" soils stay waterlogged after rain and rot roots in most crops. Your drainage class is the clearest signal of whether to plant in-ground or switch to raised beds — a poorly drained parcel is exactly where raised beds earn their cost.
