Orange, Massachusetts, sits in USDA hardiness zones 5a-6b — a range where zone-matched perennials and frost-aware annual timing set what succeeds.
Reliable performers under these conditions include tomato, blueberry, sugar maple, and zucchini; what your own ground favors still comes down to its soil, sun, and drainage.
You’re in Pioneer Valley
The Connecticut River's broad valley floor — the richest farm ground in the state, deep alluvial soils and a warmer pocket than the hills on either side. Long a market-garden and tobacco valley; a forgiving place to grow.
Even in Orange, no two yards are alike.
A low spot, a south-facing slope, or a stand of trees moves the frost date and sun across a single Orange lot. Enter your address and we'll score 1,112 plants against your land's actual soil, sun, and frost.
We read public map data for this spot — soil, climate, flood, and parcel records. How we handle your address.
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Quick Facts
USDA Zones
5a-6b
Last Hard Freeze (28°F)
Apr 13
Town normal — light frosts run a few weeks later
First Hard Freeze (28°F)
Nov 8
Town normal — light frosts arrive a few weeks earlier
Town Area
4K acres
Hardiness Zone Range
Zone maps are averages across Orange. Your yard's slope, trees, and frost pockets shift what actually grows — see your land's exact reading.
Soil varies lot by lot — soil types explained.
What Grows in Orange
Plants matched to Orange's USDA zones 5a-6b — each links to its full growing profile.











Is it too late to plant in Orange?
Almost never — the real question is what to plant next. Cool-season crops can go in from around Mar 16; tender transplants wait until two to three weeks after the last 28°F hard freeze, which lands near Apr 13 (NOAA 1991–2020 climate normals); and from midsummer, planting counts back from the first fall freeze around Nov 8 — long-season crops need about 90 days of runway, quick greens only 30. Here the season winds down slowly: late sowings, a real autumn harvest, and garlic in the ground before the first hard freeze.

Growing Challenges in Massachusetts
What an experienced grower plans around here — each one has a move.

Short growing season (120-180 frost-free days) limits warm-season crops
Pick fast-maturing varieties and start warm-season crops indoors — a cold frame or low tunnel reliably adds weeks on either end.

Rocky glacial soils require amendment in many areas
A raised bed with imported soil skips the rock-picking entirely and starts your first season on your terms.

Late spring frosts can damage early plantings through mid-May
Trust your local last-frost window over the calendar — hardy greens can go out weeks early while tender transplants wait it out.

Deer pressure is significant in suburban and rural areas
An 8-foot fence — or a slanted double line — is the fix that actually holds; lean the unfenced edges toward deer-resistant herbs, ferns, and bulbs.
For cultivar selection, pest pressure, and planting-time guidance specific to Massachusetts, the UMass Extension is the authoritative local source.
Environmental Intelligence
Understanding what's nearby helps you make informed decisions about where and how to grow.
Sources Checked
within ~10 miles of Orange
Severity Distribution
within ~10 miles of Orange
Highest-Severity Sites

A note from Gnorman
What an experienced grower watches for around here
In and around Orange, Brownfields runs higher than the national average — 110 sites nearby. It's not cause for alarm — it's worth knowing, and there's a sensible way to grow around it.
Brownfields: Brownfield sites are former commercial or industrial properties where legacy soil contamination (heavy metals, PAHs, petroleum compounds) may persist.
Check EPA brownfield remediation status — many sites have completed cleanup with institutional controls.
Check your specific parcel in Orange
Get exact proximity distances to contamination sources for your specific parcel — plus soil, sun, drainage, and 1,112 plant recommendations.
Three things about your exact spot that zone averages miss:
We read public map data for this spot — soil, climate, flood, and parcel records. How we handle your address.
25+ data sources analyzed in seconds
Your Specific Parcel Matters
Orange Average
- ●USDA Zones 5a-6b
- ●Generic soil type for the area
- ●State-average frost dates
YOUR Parcel
- ✓Your exact hardiness zone
- ✓Your SSURGO soil type & pH
- ✓Your sun exposure, cast in 3D
See MY Growing Report
Read your specific parcel in Orange
Pull a site-specific report for your exact address in Orange, Massachusetts — soil, sun, drainage, frost risk, and scored plant recommendations.
Three things about your exact spot that zone averages miss:
We read public map data for this spot — soil, climate, flood, and parcel records. How we handle your address.
25+ data sources analyzed in seconds
Key Growing Facts for Orange, Massachusetts
- USDA Hardiness Zones: 5a-6b (USDA PHZM 2023)
- Last Hard Freeze (28°F): Apr 13 (town normal, NOAA 1991–2020 Climate Normals — light frosts can follow for a few weeks)
- First Hard Freeze (28°F): Nov 8 (town normal, NOAA 1991–2020 Climate Normals — light frosts can arrive a few weeks earlier)
- Days Between Hard Freezes: ~209 (town normal, NOAA 1991–2020 Climate Normals)
- Land Area: 4K acres (US Census TIGER 2025)
Zone data: USDA ARS Plant Hardiness Zone Map 2023. Climate data: NOAA NCEI. Boundaries: US Census TIGER/Line 2025.
Frequently Asked Questions
What hardiness zone is Orange, Massachusetts?
Orange sits in USDA hardiness zones 5a-6b, per the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map 2023. Zones reflect average annual extreme minimum temperatures from 1991–2020 weather data.
Is it too late to plant in Orange?
Almost never — the real question is what to plant next. Cool-season crops can go in from around Mar 16; tender transplants wait until two to three weeks after the last 28°F hard freeze, which lands near Apr 13 (NOAA 1991–2020 climate normals); and from midsummer, planting counts back from the first fall freeze around Nov 8 — long-season crops need about 90 days of runway, quick greens only 30. Here the season winds down slowly: late sowings, a real autumn harvest, and garlic in the ground before the first hard freeze.
When does frost risk typically end in Orange?
The last hard freeze (28°F) in Orange typically lands around Apr 13, per NOAA 1991–2020 climate normals — an earlier marker than the light-frost dates many planting charts quote. That marks the hard freeze, not the last light frost — light frosts can still bite for a few more weeks, so tender transplants usually wait another 2–3 weeks.
When is the first frost in Orange?
The first hard freeze (28°F) in Orange typically arrives around Nov 8, per NOAA 1991–2020 climate normals — the point most tender summer crops finish. Lighter frosts usually reach a couple of weeks earlier, so watch the forecast from late summer on and harvest or cover tender plants before the first cold night.
What vegetables grow in Orange?
Orange's zones 5a-6b support a wide range — strong performers include Tomato, Blueberry, Sugar Maple, Zucchini, and Kale. What actually takes on any one site comes down to its soil, sun, and drainage, and we score each plant against the real conditions at your address.
Which hardiness zone is Orange, really?
Officially, Orange sits in USDA zones 5a-6b (USDA PHZM 2023) — but a zone is a 30-year average of winter's coldest night across an area, and it can't see any one yard. A south-facing slope, a tree line, or a low frost pocket can shift a single site by half a zone either way, which is why neighboring gardeners often quote different numbers. We read the conditions at your exact address — soil, sun, slope, and frost — and score 1,112 plants against what's actually there.
Is the soil safe to grow vegetables in Orange?
The federal record around Orange is a meaningful one — 217 documented sites — so a soil test before new food beds is a sensible precaution here, not a reason to hold back from growing. Remember that proximity to a documented site is information, not a diagnosis of any one yard; the contamination map shows exactly what sits where.
How do I protect my plants from frost in Orange?
As the season closes around the first 28°F hard freeze near Nov 8 (NOAA 1991–2020 climate normals), a few moves buy time: cover tender plants with floating row cover or an old sheet on still, clear nights, water the soil the afternoon before a freeze so it holds warmth overnight, and harvest frost-tender crops like tomatoes, peppers, and basil before the first hard night. Hardy greens and root crops shrug off light frost and often sweeten after it, so leave them in.
Everything on this page is a Orange average. Your yard writes its own version — we read soil, sun, drainage, and frost at your exact address. Try it for 14 days — no card required.
